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Everest Expedition

The highest peak on Earth can be found in the Himalayan mountain range, in the north of the Indian subcontinent. Expedition Everest North Col will follow the same tried and tested routine of flying to Katmandu, and then entering Tibet overland. This will enable us to arrive to base camp at the very start of the season and allow us to have the maximum possible length of time to make our ascent. It also enables a very gradual increase in altitude and allows team members to acclimatize at a controlled rate. All without imposing sudden abrupt changes in altitude on them.

Beyond the border post, the expedition will drive to Tibetan plateau, where the team will spend 2 nights acclimatizing at 3,800 meters. From here, the road climbs steadily eventually getting to the plateau proper. Then, a full two days rest is taken at Tingri. Now the road swings towards base camp, where we arrive after a day’s drive. On the way to BC we cross the Pang La, where we stop to get a view of Everest, with the North Crest also visible but just. This is one out of many mountains in a magnificent vista of the Himalaya, which spreads over the entire horizon. Also covering Cho-Oyu , among many other Himalayan Giants.

Once we arrive to base camp, the Sherpa’s set off to establish advance base camp (ABC, 6440m). Having gained more acclimatization, we follow after a few days and make a leisurely ascent using intermediary camp at 5800m. This is to ensure very gradual ascent to our camp at 6,440 meters, nestled below the North Col. From here, we start earnest climbing.

Above advance base camp, we will have 3 camps:

– Camp One – 7,060 m on the North Col, located on the snow.
– Camp Two – 7,700 m – on the rocky shelves.
– Camp Three – 8,300 m – Summit Launch Pad – on the rocky ground, but sometimes on the ledges cut into snow, depending on snowfall in the preceding season. The camp gives access to the North East Ridge, which leads to the top, via the Three Steps.

Having been in ABC for a few days, slowly allowing our bodies to adjust to the new atmosphere, we will make our way up relatively easy (but physically tough), to snow slopes to the North Col, at 7,060 m. This is a comfortable camp location, with great views across the North Face and back over the upper reaches of the East Rongbuk Glacier. However, it is not expansive, and our relatively early arrival to Tibet should ensure a good site for our camp. The plan is to spend one night on the Col. This is to allow sufficient exposure to the altitude in order to kick-start our bodies to prepare for the further extreme altitudes that are yet to come. For some, this might be enough. For others, a trip to 7,500 m might suit their acclimatization profile better.

There would be no point in climbing higher towards Everest at this stage – as body would deteriorate rather than strengthen. Therefore, by leaving Sherpa’s to fulfill the task of preparing and stocking the high altitude camps, with tents and oxygen for the climb. The main team will make its way slowly back to base camp, for a sustained period of resting and preparation. Finally, once all camps are established, and everyone is refreshed, acclimatized and well fed. We will move back up the East Rongbuk glacier to our home at advance base camp.

Itinerary

Day 1

Outbound flight Departure

Day 2

Arrive to Kathmandu

We are met at the airport and taken to the hotel. This is an excellent hotel positioned well away from the bustle of the city center. Its friendly people do their best to make us feel at home. For those joining the expedition in Kathmandu, all team members should aim to meet at the hotel on this day.

Day 3

At leisure in Kathmandu

While the leader attends a formal briefing in the Ministry of Tourism, you will be able to explore this fascinating city. As those who have been there before will know, it is a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, temples and shrines, in a blend of ancient, colonial and modern architecture. Today, the expedition leader will also check everyone’s equipment, as Kathmandu is the last opportunity to buy anything missing.

Day 4

Drive to Tibetan border

A six-hour journey on a private bus takes us through Nepal’s central valleys before turning north to the Tibetan border.

Day 5

Enter Tibet

An expedition’s entry into Tibet can be a long process. Therefore, we must leave early in order to arrive at the border customs post before lunch when it closes for a day. As the customs officials work-time is in tune with central Beijing time, this can be a tall order! All loads need to be moved off our Nepalese transport, carried across the border and then re-loaded on to the Chinese transport, waiting on the other side. Fortunately, this is a well-practiced routine for our Sherpa’s, who will handle this transition seamlessly.

Day 6-7

Initial acclimatisation period

The road cuts through the Himalaya and we witness the incredible transition from lush green foothills to arid mountain desert. Just beyond the main town, we enter a picturesque valley, which is home to several small farming villages and hamlets. We have accommodation in a small hotel (actually lodge). From our  accommodation, we walk to the nearby hills, which provide enjoyable outings to help us acclimatize.

Day 8

Drive to Tingri

The journey now continues and we take another step to higher altitudes. We travel as far as Tingri where we stay in a local lodge. The views on the way are impressive, especially as we move onto the open expanse on the Tibetan plateau. From here views of Everest and Shishapangma stimulate the imagination for what lies ahead.

Day 9-10

Acclimatisation

Using our lodge as a base, we rest in Tingri for 2 days and 2 more nights, whilst exploring the local surroundings. We will use the vehicles for forays further a field in order to get as high as possible, whilst returning to the lodge each evening to allow the altitude to soak in.

Day 11

Drive to Everest Base Camp (5,200m)

Today we leave the main highway that travels towards Lassa, and head south towards Everest. We drive over the Pang La, which will hopefully give us our first good views of Everest, some 40 miles away. Then we descend to a village in the valley floor, and continue up the valley to base camp. The road becomes rougher and rougher, but the scenery becomes more spectacular as we pass each corner. Finally there is the awesome North Face of Everest, at the head of the valley before us. From base camp, it does seem very close, but it is still 12 miles away.

Days 12-16

Acclimatisation and local exploration

We spend 4 days at base camp to allow our bodies to adapt to the altitude. This gives us plenty of time to enjoy the views, and photograph Everest. For those who are feeling up to it, there are plenty of hillsides to scramble up, and we can walk down the valley to Rongbuk Monastery, 5 miles / 8 km away. Another worthwhile objective would be to reach Tillman’s Camp, an idyllic spot beside the majestic Central Rongbuk Glacier, which offers staggering views of the north side of Everest. It is important not to overdo it during this period – there will be plenty of opportunity for exertion later! We must exercise during resting, while drinking plenty of fluids and enjoying the base camp food.

Day 17

Trek to Intermediary Camp (5,800m)

At last, with yaks carrying our supplies, we set off on foot towards Everest. The trek starts easily enough, crossing the pebble floodplain of the Rongbuk River, then weaving along a good path between the glacier and the valley side. After about 2 hours we reach a good viewpoint, then turn steeply up to the left, leaving the main central Rongbuk valley. This takes us up into what seems to be a fairly small subsidiary valley, but it soon opens up to reveal the amazing pinnacles of the East Rongbuk Glacier. It was the discovery of this approach in 1922 that provided the key to climbing this side of Everest. We camp in a very pleasant spot, with plenty of space, no more than 2 hours after having turned into the East Rongbuk Valley. The camp is located on the right bank, overlooking the river below, and is short of the moraines and the toe of the glacier that lie ahead.

Day 18

Trek to Advance Base Camp (6,440m)

Today, we take a relatively short, a few hours walk to ABC.
The re-appearance of Everest is a pleasant distraction during the final climb and, as you round the corner towards advance base camp, you can see the whole of the North East Crest, from the Raphu La to the summit.
At a distance of 4 kilometers, 2 kilometers higher altitude, the shimmering triangle of snow, that highlights the summit over and will issue its siren’s call, until your footsteps cross it!

Days 19-56

Climb Mt. Everest

It is not possible to be prescriptive about how the mountain will be climbed from this point on, as it will be matter for the leader and the team to judge. For those that have been to extreme altitude before, we would aim to be as flexible as possible to allow for people’s preferred acclimatization routine. For some, this may mean climbing as high as camp 2 on the North Crest, as soon as possible, before diving back to base camp for a long rest. Others might want to remain longer in ABC, taking several trips to the North Col and sleeping there overnight but not going any higher.
Whatever routine is adopted for acclimatization, as soon as everyone is happy that they have achieved an optimum state of readiness, the team will return to base camp for a long period of resting and eating.
From Camp 1 on the North Col, the route turns to follow a long snow ramp, the north crest proper, that rests like a gigantic flying buttress supporting the upper reaches of the mountain. Although never steep, this section is prone to wind, sweeping icily across the mountain.
From here, the route moves on to broken rocky ground of shattered shale, as the north crest cast off its layers of snow. However, the route remains relatively easy angled, although the gradient increases gently, until the next camp is reached. This is located where the mass of the north crest rams home hard against the bulk of the mountain, on rocky shelves. The day is crowned by stupendous views over the glaciers below.
The top camp will give you an even greater sense of the world below your feet. The ascent remains on broken ledges, but these are easy with shale and scree interlacing between them until snow runnels give out onto the north face proper. Once clear of the rocks and on more open slopes, you turn directly upwards, to arrive at the final camp at about 8,300-metres.
Summit day begins before mid-night! Leaving the tents in the still of the night, your headlamps shine up to pierce the darkness and illuminate a faint gully that leads to the crest above. This line through the rocks is steeper than the traverse one the day before, but the fixed ropes help lift you continue towards the skyline. Some scrambling, accompanied by a disproportionate amount of panting, will land you on the crest at over 8,500m. The only thing now between you and the top, is about 400 meters of ascent, 3 rock steps and over a kilometer of crest – the ultimate tightrope! As dawn breaks, you will see the awesome Kwangtung Face falling off to your left – a mind-boggling drop in to Tibet. For the main part, you remain on the right flank and traverse easily in places, but the route is punctuated by the First, Second and Third Steps. The hardest of these is the Second, which has a ladder and fixed rope to allow an ascent, which would be virtually impossible otherwise. Additionally, you can expect an airy traverse route to conquer the summit. Finally, the mountain yields, and the final summit snowfield, that you had seen from miles below will come under your feet and herald your arrival to the Top of the World.

Day 57

Team members walk to base camp

Day 58

Packing personal equipment at base camp

Day 59

Depart base camp and drive to Tingri

Day 60

Drive Tingri  to Tibetan border

Day 61

Drive Tibetan border to Kathmandu

Once back to Kathmandu, Extreme summit team will host an evening barbecue to celebrate the expedition and as a farewell party to thank the Sherpa’s for their support and friendship.

Day 62

At leisure in Kathmandu

Day 63

Homebound flight departures

Dates & Prices

March 28th, 2020
Spots available: 10 44800 €, Per Person

FAQ

What’s included in the price?

To maximize convenience, we include as much as possible, so you can just relax and think about hiking & climbing. Here’s what’s included:

  • Experienced expedition leader
  • Professional Mountain Guide
  • High-altitude Sherpa – 1 for 1 member
  • Oxygen cylinders “POISK” – 6 items / one climber (Start with oxygen from North Col)
  • Expedition Doctor in BC
  • Stationary radios in BC and walkie-talkies
  • Top Out oxygen masks and reducer (only for use)
  • Access to internet , TV set, DVD in BC 5200m
  • Tibet visa
  • Climbing Permit
  • Airport transfers
  • Transfer to Tibetan border and back
  • Jeeps for the team members Tibetan border to BC Everest and back
  • 1 Yak per expedition member BC-ABC and 1 Yak per member ABC-BC
  • Hotel in Katmandu 3*,  for 4 nights in double rooms (BB)
  • All hotels and lodges in Tibet, full board
  • Food in the BC, IBC, ABC – 3 times a day and tea time.
  • Tents for the participants and maintenance staff in the BC, IBC, ABC
  • Fully equipped camps in the BC, IBC and ABC
  • Fully equipped high camps / tents, food, gas, oxygen cylinders …/
  • Electricity generators for BC and solar panels for ABC
  • First-aid set
  • Nepalese cooks & Tibetan kitchen-boys at BC and ABC
  • Gas-cylinders (250gr.) only for high camps
  • Tents for the high-altitude camps
  • Ropes
  • Ice screws
  • Walkie-Talkie
  • 1 Team T-shirts & 1 team soft shell jacket

What does not included in the price?

  • Flight to/from Katmandu
  • Personal equipment for the ascent
  • Lunch and dinner in Katmandu
  • Tips for the maintenance staff & Climbing Sherpa’s
  • Personal travel, medical and rescue insurance.
  • Re-entry visa for Nepal
  • Extra personal high-altitude Sherpa
  • Extra nights in Hotel in Katmandu

Our entire high-altitude Sherpa’s have Everest experience.
They bring all shared equipment, high camps food and oxygen cylinders in high-altitude camps and accompany team all the way from ABC to the summit.

Extra expenses

  • Extra nights in hotel 3*  in Katmandu – $30 per person
  • Personal extra jeep from BC to Nepali border – $600
  • Personal extra jeep from Nepali border to Katmandu – $300
  • Extra mask and regulator (1 sets) – $350
  • Extra oxygen 4L bottles “POISK” (1 items) – $400
  • Delivery extra oxygen 4L bottles to high camps by Sherpa -$100 per 1 items
  • Extra yak for personal equipment (40 kg) from BC to ABC or from ABC to BC – $100

 

You will need to cover flights; insurance and extra spend. You’ll need to book your flights to and from Kathmandu, travel insurance and cover other personal expenses.

What’s the hiking to BC Everest like?
All the way to BC Everest we have transfer with 4 wheels drive. Only during acclimatization hike we walk about 6 hours.

What skills/experience/fitness do I need?
You need a high level of fitness level. Your professional mountain guide will give you full instructions and a safety briefing at the start. To join the Everest team you will need to have extensive mountaineering experience. This should include previous high altitude experience of at least 6,000 m, mixed with a multitude of Alpine mountaineering and, preferably, you will have taken part in a previous 8,000-metre expedition. We have found that those who have previously been to an 8,000-metre summit have a considerably better chance of getting to the top of Everest. Exceptionally, climbers who have not had the chance of climbing an 8,000 m summit but have climbed mountains such as Huascaran, Aconcagua, Denali or similar, could well consider Everest if they have the necessary commitment and determination. Although fixed ropes will be used where appropriate, expedition members must have the ability to climb mixed ground graded AD, or equivalent.

Climbing on Everest is dangerous at any time. Noon can give you 100% guarantee of your safety at altitude above 7000m and especially above 8000m. So we include in price personal high altitude Sherpa-guide for summit attempt. It is useful, especially if you have no previous experience of climbing above 8000m. This will several times multiply your safety and chances on successful summit.

 

What do I need to bring with me?
All expedition equipment will be provided. For the rest of your trip, we recommend you bring:

  • Duffle bag
  • Sleeping bag – 2 items
  • Term-a-rest  – 2 items
  • Personal items for washing
  • Crampons (e.g. Grivel G12)
  • Rucksack 70-80 liters
  • Rucksack 35-40 liters
  • Harness
  • Prussic rope
  • Karabiners with screw gate lockers – 3 items
  • Jumar (ascender)
  • Telescope ski poles
  • Thermos x 3
  • Rappel device
  • Ice Axe
  • Head lamp
  • Photo camera
  • Video camera and accessories
  • Personal crockery for high camps
  • Trekking shoes
  • Boots of “Everest” Millet type
  • Down jacket + down trousers (or down overalls)
  • Gore-Tex jacket with wide hood
  • Gore-Tex trousers (better semi-overalls)
  • Wind stop jacket
  • Wind stop trousers
  • Jacket “Polar Tec – 100” – 2 items
  • Warm underwear – 2 sets
  • Personal underwear
  • Polar Tec gloves – 2 pairs
  • Thinsulate gloves
  • Thinsulate mittens – 2 pairs
  • Warm thermo socks – 4-5 pairs
  • Balaclava
  • Warm hat
  • Wind stop face mask
  • UV glasses SP 4
  • Ski goggles
  • Gaiters

What is the doctor like?

We will have Doctor in BC. We provide a big expedition first aid kit with all the necessary medicine, but we also recommend that you bring your own specific medicine.

 

What are the guides like?
All the activities on this trip will be led in English by qualified and professional  guide and support by local Sherpa guides.

What is the Sherpa guide like?

All our Sherpa guides have Everest experience. High altitude Sherpa carry all shared expedition equipment above ABC. They establish the high camps and take all tents, dehydrated food, gas cylinders, gas stoves, kitchen utensils, snow shovels and ropes there. Personal oxygen cylinders are carried out by our expedition Sherpa’s. They bring one 4-liters cylinder to 7000m, bring one 4-liters cylinder to 7700m and three 4-liters cylinders to 8300m per climber.

What’s the food like?
All food is local and freshly cooked hearty mountain meals. These include domestic cheese, chicken and Yak meet, local tea, honey, eggs, rice, pasta, fruit and vegetable. In high-altitude camps we will provide boil-in-the-bag backpacking food, energy food etc…We can organize your meal in the way you like. The drinks are not included.

Can my dietary requirements be catered to?
Absolutely. Just let us know when you fill in your travel documents.

When can I go on this trip?
Book on to our pre-set dates above. If you are considering alternative dates, the perfect time for this expedition is March, April and May.

What’s the weather like?
Spring season (or pre-monsoon season) is the best period to climb Mt.Everest. In spring average temperature in BC is between 5 and 10 degrees Celsius;. During the ascent from ABC to the top average temperature is around minus 15 degrees Celsius, but on the summit day can be 25 degrees Celsius below the zero. In Everest region the weather is very changeable. Every day we get new weather forecast by Internet and choose the best period for acclimatization and ascent.

How do I meet the transfer?
At your arrival, the transfer will be holding a sign with the name of the tour. We’ll give you all extra details before travelling.

How big will the group be?
This trip will run with a minimum of 4 people, and a maximum of 15. Please note, if there are not 4 people booked the trip may be rearranged or cancelled. Please contact us for confirmation before booking your flights, or book with a credit card.

Can I customize the trip?
Of course! For private groups of four or more the trip can run on any days you wish, be extended or changed to suit your needs. Enquire now for a private trip.